New Zealand Road Trip: Auckland to Cape Reinga
Road Tripping to the Northernmost Point of New Zealand
From an almost disastrous New Year’s Eve to exploring the untamed beauty of the Northland, this part of the trip had plenty of highs and a few lows. We swam with dolphins in turquoise water, camped in remote places and followed the road all the way to the top of the North Island before slowly making our way back south. This post covers our 11 day road trip, from Auckland to Cape Reinga and back, and the moments that made it unforgettable.
Route Overview:
Auckland → Whangārei → Bay of Islands → Doubtless Bay → Karikari Peninsula → 90 Mile Beach → Cape Reinga → West Coast → Mangawhai
Cape Reinga Lighthouse
Auckland to Bay of Islands
After we had spent the Christmas time exploring the Coromandel region, we headed further north. Our first stop was the Highfield Garden Reserve near Snells Beach, a small donkey sanctuary we couldn’t resist visiting. We brought some cut up carrots and apples to bribe the donkeys, petted them and had fun observing them eating up the grass and flowers.
From there we continued to Tawharanui Regional Park, a protected coastal area known for its white-sand beaches, regenerating wetlands and native forest. Short on time, we walked the Fisherman’s Track, a 4km loop through bushland filled with birdsong. Tui, kererū and smaller native birds accompanied us until the forest opened up to the beach. For a moment, it felt like we had the place to ourselves.
It was almost New Year’s Eve. Snacks were gone, showers were nowhere to be found and with it being a holiday, most public facilities were closed. We had no idea where to spend the night to ring in the new year. On top of that, I was tired, hangry and running low on patience.
After discovering that the aquatic center in Whangārei was also closed and realizing we still needed to refill our water and empty the grey water, frustration peaked. In the end, practicality won. Hair was washed at a dump station, much to the amusement of an older couple also filling up on water. Not glamorous, but effective.
Dinner that night was a surprisingly fancy New Year’s Eve meal eaten inside Wallace, parked in front of a McDonald’s. Not exactly what we had imagined, but somehow fitting. The first campsite we tried was full and uninspiring, but at Tutukaka Beach we lucked out and grabbed the last available spot just as the sun dipped toward the horizon. The ocean glowed, the air softened and suddenly all the stress melted away. Thank you, universe.
We ended up celebrating the new year properly after all, with sparkling wine and cocktails. That night, a casual chat with our van “neighbors” turned into a very boozy and unexpectedly fun evening. By morning everyone was hungover, but numbers were exchanged and breakfast was pancakes by the ocean at Oakura Beach, the perfect hangover cure.
Bay of Islands to Doubtless Bay
Continuing north, we reached the Bay of Islands. Driving along endless gravel roads we finally made it to Russell, which is easiest to reach via boat. This bustling tourist town with a historic port used to be a meeting point for whalers, tradesmen and early settlers in the 18th and 19th centuries. Tree-lined streets, old houses, cute cafés and a relaxed pace made it a place we wished we could have stayed longer.
Unfortunately, with no campsites available and the summer holidays in full swing, we ended up in a paid parking lot in the middle of the busy town of Paihia. Timing matters. We likely would have enjoyed this town more at a quieter time of year, as Paihia is a major tourist hub, especially during summer and due to its proximity to Auckland. That said, if you venture slightly off the tourist-focused restaurants at the waterfront, you’ll find some genuinely good food with a more local vibe. We had excellent fries, fish and craft beer at Patwa.
They say the best way to experience the Bay of Islands is by boat, so we booked a sailing trip and set off early one morning aboard the Gungha II. Despite a light drizzle at the start, the weather cleared quickly. Leaving the harbor, we spotted a hammerhead shark and a penguin before sailing toward Moturoa Island. Once arrived, we swam ashore, explored the island, met its sheep inhabitants and enjoyed simple but perfect boat snacks. The day unfolded slowly and beautifully, sun on our faces, ocean all around. It was one of those days that quietly stays with you, a perfect day, soaking up the sun on a sailing boat in the Bay of Islands!
Doubtless Bay to Cape Reinga
At Tokerau Beach in Doubtless Bay, we found one of those campsites you immediately know you want to stay at for a while. We lucked out with a front-row parking spot right next to the sand dunes. Waking up to soft light, wide skies and the calm ocean quickly turned into a daily ritual I didn’t want to rush. While Trevor slept in most mornings, I spent time journaling or meditating on the beach. There was something incredibly peaceful about starting the day with that magical golden light.
It was one of those moments where everything felt simple. Summer, no internet, just the two of us, a long golden beach and the calm waters of Doubtless Bay stretching out in front of us. The days were spent wandering down to the beach, jumping into the water alongside the surfers and spending hours doing very little at all. It felt pretty close to perfection and was one of the reasons we completely fell for the North Island and its endless, beautiful beaches.
One afternoon, a camper parked nearby suddenly came over to let us know he’d spotted dolphins just offshore. He and another guy grabbed their surfboards and ran straight into the water. Trevor and I didn’t hesitate and followed right after. Common Dolphins surrounded us, weaving through the waves, playing and moving with an ease that felt almost unreal. Being that close, you suddenly realize how big and powerful they are and instinctively feel the urge to give them space. One of the surfers even managed to capture a photo of a baby dolphin swimming alongside its mother. For more than half an hour, we floated in the water, watching them pass by again and again.
Later that evening, just outside the less-than-glamorous beach bathrooms, we ran into familiar faces once more. Our new friends from New Years Eve who had done the same sailing tour just a day later. Such a coincidence - crossing paths again, completely unplanned, in a place that already felt special.
The next morning, just as we were getting ready to leave for Cape Reinga, brought a small reminder that things don't always go according to plan. One of our back tires was completely flat. Thankfully, AA roadside assistance came through, even though accessing the spare tire required us to literally cut a hole into the van floor. Thank goodness for YouTube tutorials and having the right screwdriver attachment on hand. Takeaway: keeping your van and belongings insured is worth it. Better safe than sorry!
Driving further north, we stopped at beaches that looked unreal and reminded us of beaches in the Mediterranean or Caribbean Sea. Matai Beach on the Karikari Peninsula offered shallow turquoise water and white sand, plus an ice cream stand right on the beach. We went for a swim, wandered along the shoreline and climbed around the rocks. Later, our New Year’s Eve friends told us they had been at the same beach and even spotted Wallace parked on the side of the road. They didn’t see us though and with spotty signal, we didn’t manage to meet up.
Later on we made it to 90 Mile Beach, our first time on the Tasman side of the island. The waves were rougher and the wind stronger, but the ocean had something undeniably magical about it. You can drive on the beach, though it’s not recommended for non-4WD vehicles, so we took the regular way instead. Considering we were still on a spare tire, it felt like a wise decision.
Before heading further north, we stopped at Rarawa Beach. The water was again shallow and warm and the sand so white it hurt your eyes without sunglasses. It was one of those beaches that felt unreal, especially since we got to enjoy it almost entirely to ourselves. I still find myself thinking back to that little stretch of paradise.
To beat the crowds at the Cape Reinga lighthouse, we camped the night before at a small paid campsite near Tapotupotu Beach. The campsite was simple with friendly owners, outdoor showers and drop toilets. Trevor and I jumped into the big waves and played around like little kids. We just love the ocean!
Finally, Cape Reinga!
And then we finally made it, all the way to the northern tip of New Zealand, Cape Reinga. The morning was foggy and quiet, and for most of the drive we could barely see the road. My plan of arriving at sunrise for perfect light didn’t quite work out, but in hindsight, the moody atmosphere felt even more fitting.
Still in our sleeping clothes, we walked up to the lighthouse and read about the Māori belief that Cape Reinga is where spirits depart on their journey back to Hawaiki. Standing there, watching the calm Pacific Ocean meet the wild, untamed Tasman Sea, the place felt quietly powerful and mystical. It seemed like you could actually see the two oceans colliding. I could have stayed there for hours, simply watching.
Giant Sand Dunes
Before heading back south, we stopped at the Giant Sand Dunes, attempting to slide down using a garbage bag after refusing to rent proper boards. It didn’t work particularly well, but it was fun anyway.
Phone reception returned somewhere along the way and with it a message from our new friends asking, if we were following a dirty white van. We were! Hands started waving at us. Once again, a reminder of how small the world can feel on the road. Since we were all heading toward Kerikeri, we met for lunch at a small café and afterwards I made the group check out the historic Stone Store and Kemp House, two of New Zealand’s oldest buildings. Today the Stone Store is an antique and souvenir shop inside of a nice park.
It was a warm day and already during lunch everyone was pretty hot, so going to the Rainbow Falls to cool off sounded perfect. At Rainbow Falls we swam across the pond, climbed up the slippery rocks to get to the area behind the waterfalls where we watched others jump into the water below.
Hokianga, West Coast
After a long stretch of gravel roads and forest and a close encounter with a big truck suddenly appearing around a turn, we reached the northern West Coast at Omapere in the Hokianga Harbour. We stopped briefly at Arai te Uru Nature Reserve for a short walk along the rugged coastline, watching the wild Tasman Sea crash against the cliffs. When we came back to the car park, someone had broken into a car and stolen personal belongings from a family we had just met on the walk and had taken photos of by the cliffs. Apparently this happens at this specific car park quite often. It was an unsettling reminder to stay aware and we were relieved that Wallace was untouched.
The drive along the West Coast through the Waipoua Forest was beautiful. The 20 km long road was lined with dense rainforest, massive kauri trees and ferns in every shape and size. Here we visited Tāne Mahuta, which translates to “Lord of the Forest", New Zealand’s largest living Kauri tree. It is estimated to be over 1250 to 2500 years old, 50 meters high and has a girth of 14 meters. Pretty big! Yet another place that felt magical to visit. On a nearby bench we took a moment to feel the silent energy of this ancient giant, which was watching over the surrounding forest like a father. Nature is wonderful!
Back in Whangārei, we stocked up on groceries and stopped at the aquatic center for a much-needed shower and a workout, followed by breakfast at Biggie Bagels.
From there, we made our way south with stops next to the Waipu Caves and Waipu Beach, a relaxed surfer town, Lang’s Beach and Mangawhai Heads, where we went for beach walks and a quick swim. We briefly checked out Goat Island but didn’t linger, as it felt busy and crowded.
In Auckland we treated ourselves to a much needed break. After weeks on the road, having a proper bathroom and a hot shower whenever we wanted felt unsurprisingly luxurious. We also met up with an old classmate, catching up and easing back into city life before continuing south.
The Northland had delivered everything we didn’t know we needed, unpredictability, beauty, frustration, connection and a growing sense that this year would unfold one moment at a time.
Route Highlights:
Tawharanui Regional Park - Protected coastal landscape with native forest, wetlands and white-sand beaches. Ideal for short walks and birdlife
Bay of Islands - One of the most memorable ways to experience the region’s islands, marine life and open water by sailing boat
Russell & Paihia - Historic port towns with a mix of charm and summer crowds. Best experienced outside peak holiday season
Doubtless Bay & Tokerau Beach - Long golden beaches, calm mornings and a slower rhythm. A perfect place to pause and stay longer
Dolphin encounters - Northland offers rare opportunities to see dolphins close to shore. Always observe respectfully and give them space
Karikari Peninsula (Matai Beach) - Shallow turquoise water, bright white sand and a relaxed, almost tropical feel
90 Mile Beach - Vast and windswept, marking the dramatic shift from Pacific to Tasman Sea landscapes
Rarawa Beach - Powdery white sand and shallow, warm water. One of the most striking beaches in the far north
Cape Reinga - The spiritual northern tip of New Zealand, where Māori believe spirits begin their journey back to Hawaiki. Powerful, atmospheric and unforgettable
Giant Sand Dunes - A playful stop near Cape Reinga, perfect for sand sliding and letting go of expectations
Hokianga Harbour & West Coast - Rugged coastline, fewer crowds and a wilder, more remote feel
Waipoua Forest & Tāne Mahuta - Home to New Zealand’s largest living kauri tree. A quiet reminder of the country’s ancient natural history
Waipu & Mangawhai Heads - Laid-back coastal towns ideal for beach walks, swims and easing back toward city life.